Sunday, August 26, 2012

18th July to 3rd August 2012

18th July 2012
Richard and the kids took a long walk/clamber over the boulders beyond the wallaby feeding area in the morning to a waterfall and back in the morning and went swimming near the weir in the afternoon.  We did some shopping in Mareeba in an effect to keep up with the way food seems to evaporate with Ric and the kids around, but Barry mainly rested his foot which has developed a problem with the Achilles heel which has brought him to a standstill, hopefully temporarily.
19th July 2012
Barry’s foot is better to the point that he can hobble short distances so didn’t go with Ric, Rory, Jack and Merry on the walk/clamber to the waterfall to show it to Merry.
20th July 2012
We drove to Tinaroo Dam wall and then on around the Lake to the Cathedral Fig Tree and then stopped off at Lake Barrine for a picnic lunch.  We then moved on to Lake Eacham where they could have had a swim but chickened out as it was a pleasant but breezy day so took the hour plus walk around the lake whilst Barry continued resting his dodgy heel which is slowly improving.
21st July 2012
Richard and the kids spent their last totally free day in the rocks and in the water hole plus feeding the turtles, birds and wallabies.
22nd July 2012
We packed up the tent, etc in the morning and took Ric and the kids to Cairns airport to catch their flight out to Brisbane where they part, with the kids flying to Canberra and Ric flying to Perth.  We made our way back up the mountain to Mareeba were we will be remaining for a couple more days. Ric and the kids had made friends with the woman managing the campground and as a result chose not to charge us for the extra two days that we elected to stay here for.  That was accepted gratefully.
23rd July 2012
As it is an overcast day with a cold breeze we chose to do the bulk of the remaining washing, cleaning and packing.  Barry’s foot problem is still improving so tomorrow could be the day to walk/clamber to the waterfall.
24th July 2012
The weather is much warmer, no cold breeze, so we tackled the 2kms walk/clamber over the rocks where the kids would have been rock hopping.  For us it was a struggle but we survived and Barry’s foot doesn’t seem any the worse for it.  We only met one other group of three much younger people on the route so despite the number of people in the campsite, which seems to be very popular and includes day tripper and bus tours, it appears not too many get much beyond visiting and feeding the wallabies, which seems to be a big deal for overseas visitors.
25th July 2012
We finalised the packing and moved off to the Daintree Rain Forests on Cape Tribulation with a stop in Mossman to do some final shopping to stock up for a week as there is only a small, expensive IGA store in the Cape.  The alternative is an 80km trip back to Mossman which would include having to use the ferry each time at $10 per return trip.  We then caught the ferry across the Daintree River and made for Lync-Haven Caravan Park which is quiet, restful and very dark at night with several rainforest walks available and there are several cruises available, either on the Daintree River or the Coopers Creek, to see the wildlife including Crocodiles.   We set up the camp and then discovered there is no Internet, no TV and very limited phone access.  In our case, we were able to set up our satellite dish on the other side of the road to where we are parked with the cable running across the ground so that the dish could see the sky through a gap in the tree tops at the correct angle, and elevation, and were able to watch TV.
27th July 2012
The day started with a Cassowary visiting the campsite before we drove to the Daintree Rainforest Discovery Centre and enjoyed the walks and the view from the tree top tower, but unfortunately didn’t see any wildlife.  The entry fee for the Centre initially sounds a bit high but it includes the use of audio units with keyboards to type in the displayed numbers and then listen to the information related to that particular area, and also a booklet that you keep which costs $9.50 if bought separately, that contains a map of the site and explains the flora, fruit and poisoning effects of the fruit.   The entry fee is valid for a week which allows multiple visits if you so desire and is well worth the visit.  That took us up to lunch time so drove the short distance out to Cow Bay Beach and used one of the available tables for our picnic lunch prior to taking Foxy for a walk on the beach.  We then drove back to the ferry to find out the details of the river cruise which operates from the other side of the river.  We didn’t want to pay to use the ferry again so we phoned and booked for tomorrow and they collect us from a small landing beside the ferry docking point.  On the return journey we turned off to a lookout with view over the bay and then continued on to check out the details of the crocodile cruise on Coopers Creek.  This amounted to a phone call again which didn’t raise anybody but may have been returned later in the day but the reception wasn’t good enough to talk to anybody.  We drove on to Thornton Beach and took Foxy for another walk along the beach back the Creek estuary but staying well away from the water’s edge so as not to offer ourselves up to any crocs that may be lurking in the shallows.  On the way home we stopped, once whilst a Cassowary crossed the road a few cars ahead of us but by the time we got to it we only photographed the back end disappearing into the bush, and again at a roadside stall to purchase some locally grown Daintree Tea.
 28th July 2012
As arranged, we met the solar driven cruise boat alongside the ferry and being the only passengers at this point we had the pick of the seating, and as luck would have it chose the right place, at the front on the correct side of the boat.  The boat cruised along one side of the river which was on the side of the boat that we had chosen so we had an uninterrupted view of the bank and the crocs that were sun baking there.  The passengers on the other side of the boat got the same on the way back but didn’t get to stop at each croc like we did on the outward trip.  
We saw four crocs from very young to quite huge plus a green frog and a Striated Heron, however, having seen crocs before it wasn’t a particularly enthralling trip for us but it was quite cheap, and the overseas visitors were obviously impressed.   We decided not to bother with the cruise on the Cooper Creek as that is another croc hunt in the mangroves.

29th July 2012
As Barry started to take Foxy for her morning constitutional walk they left the caravan and  almost walk headlong into a cassowary with its chick walking past our bay, so retreated with Foxy who wanted to take it on, and grabbed his camera.  Merry extracted herself from her bed and hurriedly dressed and immerged with her camera in time to see them both retreat into the bush.  Barry was more successful with several good shots and some video.  This is the fourth Cassowary that we have seen since arriving in the Far North of Queensland despite the fact that their numbers have declined since cyclones Larry and Yasi.  The chick is old enough to have outgrown its striped appearance and now has a brown appearance, the equivalent to our teenage years, and has yet to turn black and develop a coloured neck and head.  After lunch we drove out to Jinbalda Boardwalk which is a 700 metre walk through the rainforest, however on arrival we found there is a second walk 2.7km long on a rough steep track, so naturally we took that walk which lived up to its description but offered little for photographs.  When it rejoined the boardwalk track we did that circuit also which didn’t offer much more other than a smooth surface to walk on.
30th July 2012
Had a lazy morning but took the on-site rainforest walk and found some Penny Turtles and a spotted fish in the creek, but no cassowaries today.
31st July 2012
We drove to the end of the bitumen and visited a look out of a bay and then did the 1.7km rainforest walk and then on the return trip stopped for a bought lunch and then walked another boardwalk out to the beach.  We continued the return trip with another stop at yet another boardwalk which was different to the previous ones, and diverted to the beach which turned out to be the same beach as before but further along it.  We then had another stop for another 1.2km boardwalk but this time through a swampy area and we were lucky enough to photo both male and female Shining Flycatchers.
 1st August 2012
This was a big day out with a drive along the 30kms Bloomfield 4WD track to visit the Bloomfield waterfall.  The track is only classified 4WD only because the extra ground clearance is an advantage as there are five creek crossings to negotiate although not particularly deep at the moment.  Some patches were rough but in general quite reasonable and we never had the need to use 4WD, however we did require bottom gear on several occasions to get up the hills.  A couple of the severe hills have been concreted and are so steep you feel that the vehicle will tip over backwards and without the concrete road would need the use of the low range gears.  The final river crossing is across the Bloomfield River via a culvert type bridge that is waiting for repair and then turned upstream for a few hundred metres to the waterfall car park.  We had taken a chance and taken Foxy with us but there were no ‘No Dog’ signs so she got to walk with us.  The last part of the track involved rock hopping which she managed better than us most of the time. 
The waterfall is on the other side of the river, which you don’t go too close to as there are crocs in there, but you can get a good view of the Falls.  We parked up near the river crossing for our picnic lunch and then headed further northward towards Cooktown to the turn off to Hidden Falls which requires a half hour walk each way from the carpark.  It took us about 45 minutes each way as the last 500 metres is a clamber/climb scramble over boulders and includes a river crossing.  Foxy did very well considering how small she is but was helped on to a lot of boulders and carried some of the way including over the water crossing.  It was tough going but we made it and passed several minor waterfalls on the way.  On the way back we came to a T junction and looked for the pink ribbon indicators to guide the way which turned us to the right, which led us up a strenuous hill climb which neither of us remembered coming down but continued following the marker ribbons.  Eventually we gave it away and turned back and discovered the track we were on went to an old mine works, and that had we seen any pink ribbons to make us turn left we would have had a very short level walk to the carpark.  We estimate half an hour was wasted climbing the hill and back which was daylight time we would have preferred to use on the Bloomfield track but we did actually arrive home in daylight, but only just. 
2nd August 2012
We re-visited the Discovery Centre to cover the part we missed as our entry fee entitled us to re-visit as many times as we like within 7 days of the original entry.  In the afternoon we started the packing up process ready to move out tomorrow.
3rd August 2012
We started out with the intention of stopping at either Mossman or Port Douglas but as we approached Mossman we changed our minds again and took the long haul back up Mount Malloy and then headed north to Cooktown.  That was about a 300kms journey over several mountains that took nearly 5 hours including the lunch break, whereas the 4WD track would have got us there in about 2 hours but is far too rough for the caravan. The only bitumen road means heading 80kms south to Mossman before tackling Mt Malloy in a westerly direction almost half way back to Mareeba before heading north.

5th August to 25th August 2012


5th August 2012

In the afternoon we walked through the Botanic gardens and took the path out to Finch Bay which was mainly steps either up or down over the coastal hills to the very pleasant beach.  The tide was well and truly out when we arrived there which gave Foxy plenty of room to explore whilst we walk the length of the beach.  The sand at the creek end of the beach was very soft and left very deep footprints making the walking hard work.  We returned to the visitor centre carpark via the gravel road which was no shorter, but without the steps. 
We then drove into town and took our tourist photos of the array of monuments along the bank of the Endeavour River before driving up the very steep winding hill to check out the lighthouse that provides a great view over the town and the river.  We decided to revisit the lighthouse as a morning trip because the sun was not helpful for photographs.  Apparently Captain Cook ran his ship the Endeavour aground in the Cape Tribulation area and after refloating the ship, came into the mouth of the river to do the necessary repairs.  When you look out to sea from the lighthouse, which was Cook’s lookout, one can see the same sandbars that he was faced with to get back out to sea, and forced him northward.  The lighthouse was built much later in his honour. In 1885 the town council sent a message to Brisbane requesting guns and ammunition plus an officer to protect the town from Russian invasion.  Brisbane sent one cannon, 3 cannon balls, 2 rifles and an officer.  Fortunately the invasion didn’t happen.

6th August 2012

We did a walk through town and took a few more photos and included a drive out to view the jetty and then revisited the Lighthouse for a morning view of the town and river which now had the tide in.  In the afternoon we left Foxy at home and went to the Cook Museum which is worth the visit with plenty to see. 

7th August 2012

We left Foxy at home once more and drove northwest for about 30kms on a combination of bitumen and gravel roads to the Endeavour Tourist Park where one obtains permission to walk through the private property to Endeavour Falls.  It obviously hasn’t rained for a while up here as there wasn’t a great amount of water in evidence so our photos don’t match the photos in the local literature that where obviously taken in the rainy season.  The same applies to the Isabella falls about 10kms further up the road but were still impressive as the road crosses the river via a ford beside the Falls.  Unfortunately on this trip, our 3 month old windscreen collected several stone chips and a crack.

8th August 2012

In the morning we visited the Cemetery purely because it on the tourism listing but it did give an indication of the history and how tough life was in the 1800s in this area.  There is a 300 metre walk ay the back of the cemetery that leads to a Chinese shrine as there were a lot of Chinese in the area during the Gold rush days.  In the afternoon we returned to the Botanic garden and walked most of the way to Finch Bay again but turned off up the track to Cherry Tree Bay which is a secluded bay that can only be reached by foot.  It was a rough track with a lot of steps, some of which were quite high and difficult and littered with fallen leaves that made them slippery.  The bay is quite small with boulders adding to the picturesque view but still has the threat of crocodiles.  There is an alternative track that leads up to the lighthouse but added to the distance from the lighthouse back into town and out to the botanic gardens was not practical.  We returned the way we had come and combined with the cemetery walk would have been about 3.6kms for the day’s exercise.   Foxy did particularly well as most of the numerous steps required her to jump and must have used up a lot of energy as she waited to be lifted into the car which she can usually just manage since having the suspension raised to give us greater ground clearance under the body.

9th August 2012

Another gruelling trip to a waterfall but this time heading back down the Bloomfield Track to Home Rule Resort were we obtained permission to pass through their land out to the waterfall.   The track was good for a while and then got rough and uphill and then became very rough following the pipeline that runs from the falls to the homestead, and included some very steep stretches. 
The end of the track revealed the best waterfall that we have seen in Queensland.  The main falls are a 4 tier arrangement with the top 2 tiers coming forward and the third tier sideways to the right and the fourth tier forward again into a pool, but by moving around the pool to our left as we look at the falls, another smaller stream of water also drops down 3 tiers before joining the bottom tier of the main falls.  From the pool the water drops through several minor falls before dropping into an almost sheer sided 4 metre granite crevasse to a lower pool, and the creek.  It is a really beautiful place in the middle of nowhere with only the sound of the water and birds which made it hard to leave, and the thought of the arduous return trip didn’t help.  It took us about 2 hours to complete the journey including the time taken to achieve all the photos we wanted.  We had our packed lunch in the car when we arrived back where we had parked it and then returned to Cooktown.  It was a bit too late in the day to turn off to Trevathon Falls as they are reportedly hard to find and we didn’t have time to search for them or the inclination for another long hike to reach them.  We accept the fact that we will not get to see every waterfall in the Queensland, just as we know we missed at least 2 in Tasmania.  At the moment we have visited 24 in Tassie and 39 in Queensland and know of several that we will not get to visit.

10th August 2012

We packed up and moved back to Mossman where we were rather lucky to be able to get a bay at the second park we phoned.  The phone cover on the way was very spasmodic and we only made scratchy contact as we started the steep zigzag descent from the Tablelands.  The bay we are now in is tucked away in a corner but acceptable and the ablutions are good.

12th August 2012

Although we were lucky to even get a bay in the park as they are very busy and the only other park that takes dogs had no vacancies at all, we have found that the corner we squeezed into has nowhere tp sensibly park all of the cars, and ours in particular.  This means that if are at home and any of the neighbours want to go out we have to play musical chairs with our cars.

13th August 2012

Now that the weekend is over the park has thinned out a bit and we have moved to another bay which gives us much more room for the car as well.  This took most of the day with taking down the annex, dog fence, etc and then re-erecting it but should be worth it, although we now have some road noise but less noise from the local sugar cane mill.

15th August 2012

We drove through to Port Douglas for some shopping and a quick look at the town which is very busy, tidy and tourist orientated with numerous resorts.  We will be returning for a more thorough look in the future as there is a lookout among other things to see.

17th August 2012

We had some rest days including some rainy ones but today we achieved our main reason for stopping here, to visit the Mossman Gorge.  It involves parking in the large new carpark and passing through the ticket office where you acquire a return ticket for the shuttle bus that takes you about 2kms to the drop off point to start the 3.5kms walk with some of it alongside the boulder strewn river.  There are no waterfalls as such but plenty of rapids for photographs and a lot of rainforest with some elevated boardwalk towards the tree tops. 
The Gorge doesn’t compare with Karijini or Carnarvon Gorge, but it does have a fairly reasonable cafe in the new building with a very young garden.  Later in the afternoon we took Foxy out to Newell Beach for a walk along the beach.

21st August 2012

We drove out to Daintree Village to see what its attractions are which didn’t amounted to much other than a very small, toured dedicated village with cafes, multiple river cruise options and a very good wood gallery with some beautiful, expensive items for sale.

23rd August 2012

We took another trip into Port Douglas to do more a thorough inspection after checking out Cooya Beach on the way, but that was a copy of the other beaches in the area.   At the beginning of the road into port Douglas is the Wildlife Habitat combined with the visitor centre, and from there the road is lined with resorts, hotels and other accommodation until it turn left and continues as the main street through the town which has tree lined central median strip.   Other than the central shopping centre the rest of the retail outlets are all tourist orientated with a market feel sprinkled with pubs and food outlets.  We initially drove to the lookout which provided only a narrow view of the beach on the other side of the peninsula so we descended into Anzac Park where the Sunday Market is held and on into Rex Smeal Park at towards the end of the point.  This is the river estuary side of the peninsular which has the bank protected from rough seas with granite rocks, the smaller ones of which are used by the visitors to build an array of small cairns. 
In the park are The Old Court House and St Mary’s by the Sea, a non-denominational church originally built in 1880 which has a big attraction for weddings.  Instead of an altar, it has a large clear window showing the palm tree lined park with the ocean in the background.  We then drove to the other side of the point to the main ‘4 Mile Beach’ that appears to live up to its name.  From the town end of the beach we walked up a pathway to the top of the cliff for another view along the beach and then backtracked to the car as continuing would take us back into town, which was not an option.

24th August 2012

We took a short trip out Hugland Art Glass to see the display of specimens produced by world acclaimed Glass blowers and confirm that their work is excellent but way too expensive for us, and not entirely practical other than purely as ornaments.  That tends to sum up art in nearly all forms.  On the way there we stopped at a WW2 bomb site. Apparently5  Japanese bombs were dropped on Queensland and this one in the middle of nowhere with only one house anywhere in sight.   It missed the house but one child was slightly injured by shrapnel.

25th August 2012

Being a clear sunny day we drove through to Cairns predominantly to visit Yorkey’s Knob as it is mentioned on TV quite often, but did continued on to the Jayco caravan agency which to our surprise was closed on a Saturday of all days.  To get there from Mossman is a lovely twisty road with much of it being along the coastline with ocean views with a roadside lookout at one elevated point overlooking a sandy beach.  Most of the other beach area had been stony with rocky outcrops.  We drove into Yorkey’s Knob and strolled along the beachfront and up about 80 steps expecting there to be a lookout but that wasn’t to be, however, the top of the steps served the same purpose.  We retreated into the Cairns seafront area which is all parkland and had our picnic lunch before taking Foxy for another walk along the front to the area where dogs are prohibited.  Merry continued on into the Lagoon area which was supported by the weekend market while Barry and Foxy waited patiently in the shade.  We moved on to Clifton beach which also had steps up to a lookout which we took advantage of before heading for Palm Grove which had been recommended to us.  This allowed another walk along the seafront parkland strip with resorts and cappuccino strip on the other side of the road with large paperbark gum trees lining the road.  We walked to the jetty before retreating to the car and heading home along the coast road.